Newsletter
The veterinarians and staff at Crescent City Veterinary Hospital are pleased to provide you with an online newsletter. This fun and fact-filled newsletter is updated on a regular basis.
Included in the newsletter are articles pertaining to pet care, information on our animal hospital, as well as news on the latest trends and discoveries in veterinary medicine.
Please enjoy the newsletter!
Current Newsletter Topics
The love and companionship of pets can be found in the harshest conditions, even in a war zone. A number of recent news reports have detailed how American soldiers serving in Iraq have found and unofficially adopted canine companions amidst all the fighting. The bond these soldiers form with their new pets is strong, and the animals raise morale and provide the kind of comfort not easily found in the war-torn country. But U.S. military regulations prohibit soldiers from keeping pets, and so when troops are deployed to another area of Iraq or are sent home, they face the difficult task of leaving behind their newfound companion. However, the Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (SPCA) and a number of other groups in the U.S. have joined together to help bring dogs from Iraq back to America and reunite them with soldiers and their families.
Operation Baghdad Pups, an initiative sponsored by the SPCA and the group I Love Dogs, is leading the movement to help bring soldiers' pets back to America. Operation Baghdad Pups' first success occurred on Feb. 14, 2008, when Charlie, a border collie mix, set his paws on American soil for the first time. Much of Charlie's back story is obscured due to Army regulations. According to the SPCA, members of a military unit known as Charlie Company found a small black-and-white puppy while on patrol one evening. The puppy was weak and malnourished and so Sgt. Edward Watson, one of the members of the unit, scooped up the puppy and brought him back to their base. The whole unit cared for the dog, giving him fresh water and portions of their own rations. They named him Charlie and soon the dog was the unit's unofficial mascot. But when orders directed Charlie Company to move to a new location, Sgt. Watson couldn't bear to abandon his new friend. Sgt. Watson contacted SPCA International in October 2007, and an effort soon began to transport Charlie to the United States.

Charlie and Sgt. Watson. Photo courtesy of SPCA International.
Since then, Operation Baghdad Pubs rescued three more dogs. On Feb. 23, two dogs—Liberty, a mixed-breed puppy found in the aftermath of a house raid, and K-Pot, another mixed-breed pup found entangled in razor wire outside a military outpost—journeyed from Baghdad to New York City, and on March 13, a Shepherd/Border Collie mix named Socks landed in Washington, D.C. after befriending countless soldiers during a three-year stay in Iraq.
Other groups around the country, including local animal shelters and societies, have gotten in on the act as well. In February, the Best Friends Animal Society of Utah helped coordinate an effort to bring two puppies named Mama and Boris from Iraq to Detroit. The puppies belonged to Army Sgt. Peter C. Neesley, who found the pups outside Fort Apache in Baghdad. Neesley died of undetermined causes in 2007, and his family enlisted the help of U.S. Sen. Carl Levin to bring the dogs home.
K-Pot and soldier. Photo courtesy of SPCA International.
Bringing a dog or cat out of Iraq and back to the United States is no easy feat. According to the SPCA, it costs about $4,000 to rescue each animal; much of that money goes toward transporting the animal. However, each animal must receive rabies and distemper vaccinations and an overall health evaluation before they can be transported. As of late April, 2008, Operation Baghdad Pups has brought seven dogs and two cats from Iraq and Afghanistan to America and is working on more than 45 active request cases from the two countries. Once in America, the pets are usually placed in the home of a soldier's family member.
Since many of us believe that a house is not a home without a cat, we need to ask ourselves if our home is a safe place for them. If you have children, many of the safety measures needed for cats are probably already in place. If not, then it is necessary to look around the house and fix potential hazards.
Even cats that spend most of their time indoors may be exposed to a number of potential hazards. Disinfectants, drain cleaners, and detergents are among the many household chemicals that are toxic to your pet. They should be stored in tightly closed containers and secured cabinets where pets are unable to reach them. Medicines should also be stored out of reach.

Sharp objects such as knives and forks, carpet tacks and pins should be kept out of reach. Children's toys and small objects may attract a playful kitty and become lodged in its mouth or swallowed. Although kittens are sometimes pictured with a ball of yarn, a playful kitten and yarn are a bad combination. If ingested, yarn as well as any kind of thread, twine or ribbon could cause serious damage to the esophagus and intestinal tract.
According to the National Safety Council, as many as 5,000 house fires a year can be attributed to pets as a result of their chewing of electrical cords. In order to prevent this hazard, do your best to keep electrical wiring out of your cat's sight and reach. Exposed lamp cords and other wires should be kept as short as possible. If extension cords are used, tack them against a baseboard or run them under a carpet so they cannot be played with or chewed.
If you live in an apartment, your cat may be vulnerable to "high-rise syndrome." If your window screens are not securely fastened, a cat may fall from a window and suffer serious injuries, if not death. A cat should be sufficiently restrained or confined if allowed on an apartment balcony.

According to the Center for Disease Control, 74 percent of homes in the United States built prior to 1980 contain hazardous amounts of lead paint. As with humans, any item containing lead can be extremely harmful to a cat. Harmful effects may not show up until weeks after ingestion. Signs of lead poisoning include vomiting, diarrhea or constipation, loss of appetite, loss of muscle coordination, blindness, and seizures. Consult your veterinarian immediately if you think there is a possibility of lead poisoning.
In addition to indoor dangers, outdoor hazards are often found in the garage or shed. Harmful products include windshield cleaners, weed killers, insecticides, used motor oil and antifreeze. Many cats are attracted to the sweet taste of antifreeze (believe it or not!) containing the chemical ethylene glycol which is highly toxic to cats. If it is spilled on the ground or leaking from your car, it can combine with a puddle making it exceptionally easy for your cat to drink it. New antifreeze products have been introduced that claim to be non-toxic to pets, but it's always better to be safe than sorry. Be sure to clean up spills of any questionable liquid to avoid injuring your kitty!
Wherever the hazard may come, it is important to remember that your cat is not so different from a child. Curious paws and noses may inevitably discover areas that have yet to be "kitty-proofed." Once you get to know the likes and dislikes of your cat, it would be much easier to determine what is hazardous and what has not made your cat's priority list of noteworthy attractions.
Ultrasound is a non-invasive, modern technique that produces a visual imprint of the interior of the body. It allows the doctor to achieve a depth of detail that is not possible with X-rays.

Veterinary Ultrasound Machine

Abdominal ultrasound allows the user to fully examine the liver, gallbladder, spleen, adrenal glands, pancreas, kidneys, urinary bladder, and parts of the stomach and intestines. Ultrasound examination of these organs is crucial when a diagnosis depends upon seeing inside an organ, or when surgery or anesthesia would not be desirable. Abdominal ultrasound is completely painless, and generally can be performed using no anesthesia or sedation. Abdominal ultrasound has revolutionized the study of liver diseases, and is crucial to treating many types of cancer.
A Warning to All Dog Owners
As early as the 1960s, experiments have indicated a link between the ingestion of xylitol and hypoglycemia in dogs. However, it has only been recently that the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center has begun to receive reports of xylitol toxicosis in dogs. It is believed that this recent rise is likely due to the increased use of products containing xylitol in the United States.
Effects of Xylitol Ingestion
In both humans and dogs, the levels of blood sugar are controlled by the body’s release of insulin from the pancreas. In humans, xylitol ingestion does not cause any significant changes in insulin levels or, therefore, blood glucose. However, in dogs, xylitol causes a fast release of insulin, which results in a rapid decrease in blood glucose (hypoglycemia).
Clinical Signs
Clinical signs of xylitol toxicity can develop in as few as 30 minutes after ingestion. Clinical signs may include one or more of the following:
- Vomiting
- Weakness
- Ataxia (uncoordinated movements)
- Depression
- Hypokalemia (decreased potassium)
- Seizures
- Coma
- Liver dysfunction and/or failure
Treatment
After ingesting a xylitol-containing product, dogs may receive one of more of the following treatments, depending on the amount of time that has lapsed since the ingestion occurred. The induction of vomiting is recommended if performed very soon after ingestion of the xylitol-containing product but before clinical signs develop. Frequent small meals or an oral sugar supplement may be used to manage dogs that have not yet shown clinical signs. Following the appearance of clinical signs intravenous dextrose can be used to control hypoglycemia. If indicated, treatment for low potassium levels (hypokalemia) may be necessary. Treatment should be continued until the blood glucose levels return to normal.
For more information on this and other poison control questions the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center can be reached at 888-426-4435 or visit their website.
Good Nutrition
The very basic requirements for life are food and water. Good nutrition is the foundation of overall health. Since cats are natural carnivores, they require meat-based diets. Luckily, cat owners can choose from a variety of diets certified by the Association of American Feed Control Officials. These products are available from your veterinarian, your feed store or from your grocer. Pet food manufacturers spend huge sums of money touting the benefits of their products and the feeding trials conducted by the AAFCO in order to verify that their pet foods meet quality standards. It is always best to listen to your veterinarian as he or she may recommend a particular diet according to your cat’s needs.
Nutritional needs vary with the cat’s age and health status. Kittens should consume growth diets until they reach approximately nine months of age. At this age, young cats can be gradually weaned from kitten food to adult cat food. This should be done by gradually increasing the amount of adult food and decreasing the amount of kitten food over several days. If a food is changed too abruptly, this can lead to intestinal disturbances with diarrhea. Cats entering their golden years should transition from adult food to senior cat food in a similar manner. Specialty diets that address dental disease and hairballs are good preventive medicine diets that help avoid these health problems in susceptible cats.

Immunization
Rabies needs to be incorporated into every immunization program. Rabies is transmitted by bite wounds and vaccination protocols are often dictated by state or municipal regulations. Vaccinating cats helps prevent the transmission of rabies to humans.
Feline Panleukopenia (Feline Distemper) is transmitted from one cat to another. The virus is very resistant and can survive in the environment for more than a year. Since maternal antibodies interfere with immunizations, a series of vaccinations needs to be given.
Vaccination is highly effective for prevention of feline panleukopenia. All kittens should be vaccinated, and adult cats should be given regular booster vaccines. The vaccination series begins at six to nine weeks of age, and vaccinations are repeated until the kitten is approximately 12-14 weeks old. An adult cat should receive regular booster vaccines.
Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis and Calicivirus (Feline Respiratory Disease) are common viruses that cause approximately 90 percent of feline upper respiratory disease. These viruses are spread directly from cat to cat through respiratory secretions. Sneezing cats are known for transmitting the disease in catteries, animal control facilities and boarding kennels.
Cats and kittens are infected by contaminated material, as well as by other cats. The disease is occasionally fatal for kittens, though most cats recover. The respiratory disease organisms are extremely contagious, and cats that recover from the disease are often the principal carriers. Without showing any clinical symptoms, these cats can remain carriers for months and even years. Some cats never fully recover from the disease and show symptoms throughout the rest of their lives. Once several cats become infected, the disease is very difficult to eliminate from multi-cat households.
Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV) is transmitted through respiratory secretion through the sharing of food and water bowls or litter boxes. Mutual grooming, catfights, and mating can also transmit the virus.
There are no symptoms that are specific for FeLV infection. Tumors, anemia (low red blood cell count), white blood cell and platelet disorders and numerous immune-mediated diseases are common conditions. The main effects of the virus are on the cat’s immune system. An infected cat is extremely susceptible to any type of infection. Respiratory, oral and skin infections are common. Chronic digestive and urinary tract problems are also encountered. Vaccination recommendations for feline leukemia are based on the age of the cat and the risk of exposure.
Feline Immunodeficiency Virus causes immunosuppression. Feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV) is spread primarily though bite wounds, making cats that are born of negative mothers, live indoors and never fight at low risk. Conversely, a cat of questionable ancestry that roams outdoors and participates in neighborhood brawls, is at high risk of infection.
Lymphocytes are important cells involved in the body’s immune (defense) system. FIV infects and destroys these lymphocytes. Without lymphocytes, immunodeficiency results, leaving the body open to infection. Symptoms associated with FIV are generally due to secondary bacterial, viral and fungal infections.
FIV vaccination is controversial due to the interference of vaccinating with diagnostic testing. Currently available diagnostic tests do not distinguish between a truly infected cat and a vaccinated cat.
Vaccination of FIV negative cats living with FIV positive cats in an unstable social structure, or cats living outdoors that fight frequently, may be potential candidates for vaccination.
Feline Parasitology
De-worming of kittens and cats as part of a preventive medicine program is recommended. When the kittens are three weeks old, they and their mother should be treated with an oral de-worming medication. All kittens should be treated again at regular intervals and their stools should be checked for parasites. The U.S. Center for Disease Control recommends these guidelines not only to protect the kitten, but also to protect humans from possible infection.
More often than not, dogs are exposed to toxic household products accidentally, though from time to time, well-intentioned owners may unknowingly give their dogs harmful products or medications in an attempt to help them. To help you be a responsible dog owner, we have compiled a list of the 10 most common household hazards to dogs based on data received at the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (APCC) between 2001 and 2005.
Ibuprofen
Ibuprofen, also known by the name brands Advil or Motrin, is a non-steroidal, anti-inflammatory drug commonly used as a pain reliever or fever reducer. The most common over-the-counter strength is 200mg, but prescription strength tablets can get as high as 800mg. Dogs are often exposed accidentally, either because they have chewed a bottle containing ibuprofen or their owner has given it to them intentionally for pain control.

The effects of ibuprofen poisoning are diverse. An overdose can cause damage to the GI tract, the kidneys and the central nervous system. Ingestion by dogs can lead to ulceration, vomiting, diarrhea and/or abdominal pain. Larger doses can result in an increased risk of a dog developing acute renal failure, depression, seizures and/or comas.
Chocolate
Chocolate contains a stimulant known as a methylxanthine or theobromine. The amount of methylxanthines depends on the type of chocolate. For example, milk chocolate contains lower amounts of methylxanthines than dark chocolate, while baker's chocolate has the highest and most toxic amount.
Clinical signs of chocolate poisoning vary. The dog's reaction depends on the type of chocolate, the amount ingested, the size of the dog, and the dog's sensitivity to methylxanthines. Signs of ingestion can include mild stimulation such as hyperactivity, agitation and restlessness, cardiovascular effects like tachycardia (increased heart rate), arrhythmias, hypertension or hypotension and central nervous system signs such as tremors and seizures. Vomiting and diarrhea may occur with any amount, due to chocolate's high fat and sugar content.
Ant and Roach Baits
No one likes having ants or roaches in the house, but it is important to remember the potential hazard to your dog by placing baits or traps. The product names vary, and the containers may be referred to as chambers, discs, stations, systems, traps, baits or trays. To attract the insects, most ant and roach baits use an attractant (often peanut butter), a sweetening agent and bread. These baits once contained compounds highly toxic to mammals (arsenic trioxide and lead arsenate); the most common insecticides used in ant and roach baits today are boric acid, avermectin, fipronil, hydramethylnon, propoxur and sulfonamide.
Due to the low concentration of the insecticide and the small size of the bait, serious illness in dogs ingesting the baits is not expected. In many instances, the risk of a foreign body or obstruction from the plastic or metal part of the container is of greater concern than the active ingredients. Signs of ingestion are usually limited to mild gastrointestinal upset and do not require specific treatment.
Rodenticides (rat poison)
Poisons intended to kill rats, mice, gophers, moles and other pesky mammals are among the most common and deadly household poisons. Since rodents and dogs are both mammals, it makes sense that substances highly poisonous to mice, for example, would be lethal to dogs. It cannot be stressed enough that rodenticides are highly toxic and any such poisons designed to kill small mammals need to be carefully stored away from curious canine noses. The poisons usually come in flimsy cardboard containers, and any dog or puppy can chew through it to get the bait.
While there are many categories of rodenticides, the most common poisoning seen in veterinary practice is the anti-coagulant kind. Anti-coagulant rodenticide has ingredient names like warfarin, fumarin, diphacinone and bromadiolone. These poisons act by interfering with a dog's ability to utilize Vitamin K. Without it, a dog's blood is unable to clot, which can ultimately cause severe blood loss, anemia, hemorrhage and death. Generally, clinical signs are not seen until 3-5 days after the dog has ingested the poison. Signs of ingestion are weakness, difficulty breathing, pale mucous membranes, bruising and bleeding from the nose. Other types of rodenticides can cause neurological symptoms such as incoordination, seizures and other cardiac failure.
If accidental ingestion of rat poison is suspected, contact your veterinarian immediately, even if your dog is not showing any symptoms. If possible bring the poison container to the clinic to determine the specific rodenticide ingested and therefore provide the best treatment. Early recognition is critical, as some intoxications can be treated successfully if caught early and treated appropriately.
Acetaminophen
Acetaminophen, most commonly known as Tylenol, is an over-the-counter medication used to relieve pain and reduce fevers. Available in tablets, capsules or liquids, it can be rather easy for a dog to chew on a bottle or mistakenly be given some by its owner as a pain killer. As with ibuprofen, dogs should never be given acetaminophen as a pain reliever. Specifically, acetaminophen breaks down into small particles that bind to red blood cells and other tissue cells. This results in the destruction of these cells. In other words, just one pill can cause significant tissue damage in dogs (especially small dogs). Signs of ingestion develop quickly and can include salivation, vomiting, weakness, abdominal pain and fluid build up (edema) in the face or paws.

Cold medications (Pseudo-ephedrine)
Many cold medications contain pseudo-ephedrine, a drug structurally similar to amphetamine. Ingestion can lead to cardiovascular and central nervous system problems. The most common clinical signs include agitation, hyperactivity, panting, hyperthermia (increased body temperature), tachycardia, head bobbing and dilated pupils. A small amount can be life threatening, so timely treatment is important.
Thyroid hormones
Thyroid hormones can be toxic to dogs. Although natural (desiccated thyroid) and synthetic (levothyroxine or L-thyroxine) derivatives of thyroid hormones are used to treat hypothyroidism in both animals and people, an overdose can be toxic. As with any medication, dogs are susceptible to drug overdoses, much like humans. Hyperactivity and tachycardia are the most common signs of overdose. If you think you have overdosed your dog or your own medication bottle has been chewed, consult your veterinarian for the best course of action.
Cleaning Products
This category contains dozens of products used around the home including toilet bowl cleaners, bleach, detergents, caustics (e.g. Drano, Ajax, etc.), pine oils and so forth. These products are often highly poisonous to dogs. The range of chemicals included in cleaning products can cause signs varying widely from mild local irritation (many detergent soaps) to deep penetrating tissue damage (alkaline products) to severe systemic disease (pine oils). Due to the wide range of products, generalized illness is most common along with skin irritation or a burn if contact has been topical instead of ingested. Like rodenticides, it is wise to keep all cleaners tightly closed when not in use and stored in a location where curious canine noses are unable to reach. Also, be sure to keep dogs out of newly cleaned areas to avoid paw injuries from walking in the cleaning solution and mouth burns from subsequent grooming.
Fertilizer
Spring and fall are the times to fertilize. Unfortunately, it is also the time for accidental poisoning. Dogs often lick their paws, especially after walking outdoors. Because fertilizers are usually a combination of ingredients, several toxic outcomes are possible. In general, the ingredients are poorly absorbed and most clinical signs are related to gastrointestinal irritation showing up as vomiting, hyper salivation, diarrhea or lethargy. The best way to avoid illness or injury is to keep your dog inside while treating your lawn and wait awhile before letting him or her out.
Household Chemicals (hydrocarbons)
Hydrocarbons are in numerous household products, including paints, varnishes, engine cleaners, furniture polish, lighter fluid, lamp oils, paint removers, and fuel oil (e.g. acetone, xylene, kerosene, gasoline, naphtha, mineral oil). Since there are so many possible poisons, the result of ingestion varies widely. Clinical signs include vomiting, diarrhea, mild to moderate eye irritation, skin burns, pulmonary damage, pneumonia, depression or excitement, hypoxia, inflammation and liver or kidney damage. Though dogs generally do not enjoy the taste of any of these products, a common cause of ingestion is through drinking out of puddles that contain chemicals or walking through spilled liquids and then licking their paws.
You’ve adopted a cat from a friend, a shelter or your veterinarian. Looking at your cat, it’s so beautiful that you think it must be a purebred. Looking at a chart on the wall or at pictures in a book, you’re sure you found the cat. It must be a purebred...or is it?
It is possible you have found a purebred; however, there are many reasons why this is unlikely. First of all, it is important to understand a little bit about the meaning of breeds.
According to the Cat Fanciers Association, fewer than 3 percent of all owned cats worldwide are pedigreed. This doesn’t include the feral cat population which is estimated to be twice the population of cats with homes. Out of all registered purebred cats, more than half are Persians. In 1998, CFA registered 18,332 Persian kittens born that year (not of the Himalayan pattern). Compare that number to the smallest breed, the European Burmese, which registered a mere 39 kittens the same year.

Himalayan
Breed is an artificial distinction, one that has only been present when talking about cats for a little over a century. The existance of some cat breeds can be traced back fewer than ten years. Unlike dog breeds, cat breeds are a relatively new concept, and many are imports from other countries. Only for the last 20 years have we seen the diversity that makes up most of our cat breeds today.
There is a crucial difference between breeds and traits. A particular breed of cat almost always has a particular trait, but not every cat with that trait is a member of that breed. For example, solid blue coloration is a trait common to four breeds: Korat, Russian Blue, Chartreux, and British Shorthair. However, these four breeds are very different from one another in body type, boning, facial structure, eye shape and color and general conformation. They are also very rare breeds, particularly in the United States. The CFA registered only 222 Chartreux kittens and 85 Korat kittens worldwide in 1998.

Russian Blue
Blue coloration is also very common in the mixed-breed cat population at large. Genetically, it is the "dilute" form of black. A "blue" is a solid black cat with one gene that changes the look of the color in such a way that the cat appears an attractive shade of blue-gray. Black is the most common genetic color in cats. In other words, more than 99 percent of all blue cats are from the general (non-pedigreed) cat population.
Another common trait that is mistaken for a purebred is the so-called Manx trait, or complete to partial taillessness. This dominant trait is found in the random-bred population as well as the purebred Manx population. Taillessness can also occur from accidents. Your vet should be able to tell you if the taillessness is from an accident or if the cat was born that way. Just over 700 pedigreed Manx kittens were registered in 1998. Again, that’s worldwide. There are far more tailless cats than can be accounted for in this fashion.
Breed is not about traits as much as it is about pedigree. A cat is a member of a breed because its parents were registered members of that breed. Without papers to say that a cat is a member of a breed, there is absolutely no way to say for certain that a cat is a member of a breed. The most accurate thing you can say about them is that they are a breed look-alike.
Every breed of purebred cat originally started from domestic populations. The desire to create a particular cat that would be predictable in looks and temperament led people to search the domestic cat populations for selective breeding. Many people think that every large longhaired cat is a Maine Coon, but those who actually have pedigrees are few and far between. However, the Maine Coon was created from hardy, longhaired, mixed-breed cats several decades ago, so the chances are that large longhaired mixed-breed cats and today’s fancy show cats shared common ancestors.
Even though your cat may not be a purebred, the thing that makes them all special is their own unique traits and personalities.
Americans and their dogs appear to have one thing in common: they are both overweight. The problem is that they eat too much and too often. Along with excessive eating, the amount of exercise needed to burn up the calories is not sufficient. Also, the foods we feed to our pets (as well as what we eat ourselves) are very high in calories.
There are several reasons why your dog may be overweight. The most common causes include over-eating, diabetes mellitus, hypothyroidism, Cushing’s disease (hyperadrenocorticism) and obsessive-compulsive eating disorder. Obesity is more commonly due to over-eating than disease!
Obese animals tend to live a shorter life than animals that are trim. Fat dogs have an increased risk of cardiovascular disease, respiratory disease, liver disease, diabetes, orthopedic problems, and even neurological problems. Dogs that are overweight often experience difficulty breathing and become less able to tolerate heat. They may also experience difficulty walking or be unable to tolerate regular exercise due to muscle weakness. As responsible pet owners, we need to make sure that our pets are eating properly and not excessively overweight.

Recent studies have shown that 40-50 percent of American dogs are overweight. In comparison, about 25 percent of cats are fat.
Planning a Diet
If your pet is overweight, work with your veterinarian to decide on and stick to a proper weight-reduction plan. Your veterinarian can help assess your pet’s obesity and weight reduction plan and determine whether there are any complicating disease concerns. In some cases, a prescription type of diet may be recommended.
Weight should be lost gradually. Starvation or crash diets are inhumane and rarely work. Most dogs require 10 to 12 months on a weight loss plan before results are achieved. Dogs should eat twice a day and be fed reasonable amounts of high fiber low fat dog food. Also, treats should be suitably formulated—small and strictly rationed.
General Weight Loss Instructions
Weight loss should be a family effort. All members of the family must admit the animal is overweight and commit to a weight loss program.
- One person should take charge of feeding the dog.
- If the dog is extremely overweight, the diet must be changed to a therapeutic veterinary diet specifically designed for weight loss. Simply feeding less of your dog’s regular food is rarely, if ever, successful.
- Owners must be willing to measure exactly the amount of food offered. Minimize treats. If treats are necessary, offer low calorie snacks such as air popped popcorn or a piece of vegetable (such as carrots or green beans).
- Most dogs do achieve ideal or near ideal body weight when the owner and family members are committed to improving the pet’s health.
- In order to maintain the ideal weight, it is often necessary to continue feeding the weight loss die. The amount of food however, is generally increased.
Food Recommendations for Feeding Overweight Dogs
Lower your pet’s daily caloric intake by 50 percent of that required at their ideal body weight.
Change the pet food product to one designed for weight loss and containing:
- less than 340 kcal per 100 g of food on a dry matter basis.
- between 5-10 percent fat.
- between 10-30 percent crude fiber.
- greater than 25 percent crude protein.
Feed your pet twice a day.
Feed the prescribed measured amount of food.
Give treats only as directed. Use specifically designed low calorie treats or give cooked or raw vegetables.
Exercise is an important factor in weight loss. As with humans, exercise provides an outlet for pent-up energy. Another benefit from exercise is that it leads to the production of serotonin, a neurotransmitter in the brain. Serotonin has two effects that might be relevant: first, it helps to prevent depression and has anti-obsessive properties. Second, it reduces appetite. Both are desirable for weight loss.
Recently, a new medication has been introduced for weight loss in dogs. This prescription medication is available only through your veterinarian.
Your dog’s weight contributes significantly to his or her well-being. A fat dog is generally lethargic and does not live life to the fullest. A trim healthy dog is much more active and truly makes a more enjoyable companion.
If your dog is overweight, a visit to your veterinarian is the best first step.
When your cat feels threatened, he may have a variety of responses. Generally he follows a pattern or displays one of three reactions: fight, flight or freeze. Each cat has a preferred way of dealing with a crisis. Knowing how your cat reacts to a perceived threat and what may cause your cat to consider a situation threatening helps you better understand your cat.

Common fearful reactions include hiding, freezing in place, loss of bladder and/or bowel control and aggression. Aggression can manifest in spitting, hissing, growling, swatting, biting, scratching and puffing up of fur. These are all normal behaviors if your cat feels scared or threatened. Your reaction to your cat’s behavior is most important. Wanting to help and comfort your cat when he is frightened is natural; however, it isn’t necessarily the best thing to do. Providing your cat with a safe and protected place (a box, space in the closet, under the bed) is often the best decision. Allowing your cat to deal with his fear is healthy as long as his aggression is not destructive and/or directed at you or other pets.
Many things can trigger fearful behavior in cats. The trigger could almost be anything, and until you learn what it is that initiates this behavior in your cat, you need to closely observe him when faced with new situations. Common triggers can be a particular person, a stranger in your home, another animal, a child, loud noises, household appliances and so on. It is important to note if your cat’s behavior changes when faced with potentially frightening situations. In other words, the vacuum may draw an initial fearful response, but gradually change into acceptance. By noting your cat’s ability to adapt to scary situations over time, you can learn quite a bit about his personality.

So what can you do to reduce your cat’s anxiety or fear? To help him become more confident and secure, follow the steps described below.
- Schedule an appointment with your veterinarian for a thorough physical exam to rule out any medical reasons for your cat’s fearful behavior. Cats very often show symptoms of sickness in their behavior. Any sudden behavior change could mean that your cat is ill. Common symptoms that appear in sick cats include unusual aggressiveness, frequent hiding and eliminating outside the litter box.
- If your cat is healthy but hiding, leave him alone. He’ll come out when he’s ready. To force your cat out of his hiding spot will only encourage fearful behavior. Make sure he has access to food, water and a litter box from his hiding place, and avoid "checking in" on him. By giving him space, you will not be conceived as a threat, therefore giving him a sense of security.
- If you have identified a specific person or circumstance that stimulates fear in your cat, minimize contact with that particular person or situation.
- Keep your cats routine as regular as possible. Cats feel more confident if they know what to expect daily. Feeding, playing, cuddling, grooming and napping generally round out a cat’s existence. Interfering with you cat’s routine may cause him to behave as though threatened.